PROJECTS

Geo – scientific and Mountaineering Expedition in

Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Huayhuash of

Peru - South America, 2012

Early evening light on the southwest face of Alpamayo, in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. Photo taken from camp on the col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju, July 16, 2007. By Howie Silleck. Source: http://www.summitpost.org/evening-light-on-alpamayo/318390/c-150466

The 2012 expedition in Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru, South America is a complex project that encompasses three major categories of objectives: Geological and Geographical, Mountaineering, Video and Photographic. The expedition objectives are interconnected and have a clear goal, plan and methodology. Also, the promotion of the expedition, the sponsors and their image as well as informing the British and Romanian public about the action, through advertising, press conferences, video and photographic exhibitions comprises the fourth goal. A professional photographer from Romania, Sorin Rechitan, winner of many national and international awards and prizes will provide some of the photographic equipment.

Geological and Geographical Objectives

1970 Ancash Earthquake

The Cordillera Blanca is part of the highly tectonically active Andean Mountain chain formed by the collision of the Cocos, Nazca, Antarctic and South American lithosphere plates. Intense endogenic processes form suitable conditions for highly active dangerous geomorphologic processes. Cordillera Blanca forms the NE boundary of the Rio Santa Valley, which has been affected by many historic natural disasters such as: landslides, rock falls, rock and ice avalanches, debris flows, outburst floods and floods. The rock/ice falls and avalanches are connected mostly with large magnitude earthquakes (Klimes et al. 2005).

On May 31 1970, a complex catastrophic mass movement occurred in the Rio Santa valley, Cordillera Blanca. The event was triggered by a complex offshore subduction zone earthquake, (Ms~7.8) at an epicentral distance of 150 km. The movement originated on the steep glacier-capped rock slope forming the west face of the North Peak of Nevado Huascarán (6654 m) as a fall consisting of rock and glacial ice, which in the process of traveling very rapidly downslope entrained a considerable volume (50-100 million m³) of snow and morainic material from the slopes beneath Huascarán. In doing so, the mass movement transformed into a rapidly moving mud-rich debris flow which traveled down the valley of the Rio Ranrahirca (Shacsha), a tributary of the Rio Santa. Part of the debris surmounted a steep valley side of the Rio Ranrahirca and swept down upon the town of Yungay burying the town site and most of its inhabitants. At least 18 000 people died as a result (Evans et al. 2009).

The extensive destruction to communities and an additional estimated 20,000 casualties resulted primarily from failure of adobe and masonry structures, which had little shear resistance to lateral forces imposed by seismic shaking. The degree of damage to buildings and to transportation routes was aggravated in some areas of saturated unconsolidated deposits by differential compaction, downslope slumping or sliding, lateral spreading of liquefied sediments toward free faces, and possibly amplification of seismic vibrations (Plafker et al. 1971).

Exceptionally rapid movement of the avalanche is indicated by eyewitness accounts, by topographic irregularities as high as 140 m that were overridden, and locally by boulders weighing several tons that were hurled as much as 1,000 m beyond its margins. A pulse of muddy water from the debris avalanche that swept down the Río Santa 160 km to the sea inundated farms and small settlements, buried highway and railroad routes, and destroyed the diversion dam and access bridge to a major hydroelectric plant (Plafker et al. 1971).

The evidence of long-term instability of the northern summit of Huascaran along with an increasing population density in the area raises questions about the frequency and magnitude of potential future events and their risk to the local people (Plafker et al. 1971).

The Huascaran National Park

The Huascaran National Park is situated in the Ancash department in the north – central part of Peru and includes most of the Cordillera Blanca. The national park was established in 1975 and declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1977. There are 60 peaks with altitudes above 5700m, the highest being Huascaran 6768m. Forty-four glacial valleys transect the range from both west and east. The terrain below 4800m is characterized by high altitude grassland (puna) with remnant quenual (Polylepsis species) forests located within the upper inner valley slopes. The Polylepsis forest cover contains a high diversity of flora and fauna as well as providing habitat for many endemic species of Andean birds. There are approximately 779 plant, 112 bird and 10 mammal species in the region. Unfortunately, the Polylepsis forests have been drastically reduced during the past century and continue to experience reduction, with as less as 3% of the original forest continue to remain today.. They comprise primary water catchment sources.

West of the park lies the agricultural and earthquake-affected valley of the Santa river, a densely populated region containing cities such as Huaraz (90 000 inhabitants), Caraz (15 000 inhabitants) as well as hundreds of rural villages. The cities are relatively prosperous even though most of rural settlers still rely on subsidence as means of living. Incomes are based on agriculture, livestock and growing tourism especially in the west parts of the park.

There are important environmental issues in the area such as: overgrazing of alpine and subalpine pastures, concentrated tourism, uncertain land titles and park boundaries, government policies supportive of resource extraction within the national park and subsequent external pressures such as new roads, mining, dams and tourist infrastructure. However, during 1995 and 1996, the Mountain Institute along with governmental, non-governmental, private sector and local communities produced the Huascaran National Park Ecological Management Plan, the country’s first participatory plan for protected areas (Byers, 2000).

Objectives:

Landscape changes in the Huascaran National Park

By using photographic, video and written means, we would like to observe and record the present state of the landscape affected by the 1970 subduction earthquake in the Huascaran National Park. The focus will be on the following areas: Rio Santa valley, Rio Ranrahirca valley, Yungay and Huaraz city, and North peak of Nevado Huascaran. We will replicate older photographs (repeat photography) from the 1936 and 1939 Austrian/Germen climbing and cartographic expeditions, the 1997/1998 Mountain Institute Evaluation and Monitoring expedition and photographs from the Royal Geographical Society.

The aims are to identify the landscape changes that occurred in the areas affected by the 1970 earthquake (Rio Santa valley, Rio Ranrahirca valley, Yungay and Huaraz city and Huascaran Norte) and document the state and rate of the recovery process as well as the adaptive measures taken by people and the characteristics of the restoration process. Comparing old to new photographs can easily help us study these changes.

2. Native and Non native Vegetation Cover Changes and Human Impact

By using photographic, video and written means, we would like to observe and record the present state of the native, Polylepsis and non native Pinus and Eucalyptus forest cover in the Huascaran National Park focusing on the following areas: Honda valley, Pisco valley and Rio Santa valley. We will replicate older photographs (repeat photography) for the same photopoint locations as those used by the 1936 and 1939 Austrian/Germen climbing and cartographic expeditions, and 1997/1998 Mountain Institute Evaluation and Monitoring expedition in order to observe the changes in vegetation cover.

After the process of comparison (old to new photographs) and evaluation of the data we will provide information regarding: the Polylepsis forest regeneration trends and factors of influence such as accessibility, the impact of cattle grazing and boulder field and provide information about the correlation between recent road construction and forest loss within the park.

3. Glacial recession and climate change

The aim for this section is to document how much the glaciers have retreated and whether human induced climate change is accelerating this process. For this quest we will record (video and photographically) important glaciers throughout the Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Huayhuash from the same photopoint locations as those used by the 1936 and 1939 Austrian/Germen climbing and cartographic expeditions, and 1997/1998 Mountain Institute Evaluation and Monitoring expedition as well as from the Royal Geographical Society database. Examples of areas and locations to be documented includes: Pisco valley, the surroundings of Nevado Huascaran Norte and Nevado Huascaran Sur, Yanapaqcha, Alpamayo, Yerupaja West Glacier, Yerupaja East Glacier and Jirishanca North Glacier.

Interviews with local people will also provide information about the effects of glacier melting and retreat on local precipitation magnitude and frequency, average temperature, water supplies, agriculture and industry and ultimately people.

Methods:

Repeat photography is an analytical tool capable of broadly and rapidly providing preliminary clarifications related to landscape/ land use changes within a given region. When aided by ground truth disturbance analysis, interviews with local people and scientists, literature reviews, insights regarding resource management issues can be obtained within a relatively short period of time. Such examples include clarifications about a region’s historical and contemporary forest cover; changes in high altitude pasture conditions, glacial recession and formation of new glacial lakes, village growth or decline, impacts of catastrophic events such as the subduction 1970 earthquake, mining and logging, and the effectiveness of management interventions over a prolonged period (Byers, 2000).

The ideal method is to replicate older photographs using the precise equipment and procedures employed by the original photographer. Also season, time of day and weather conditions should be also replicated as closely as possible. However, this is a challenging quest due to the remoteness and high altitude of most photo point stations. High quality photographic replication of older, original photographs will assess large-scale landscape vegetation and glacier changes in the Huascaran National Park and Huayhuash Range. Some of the equipment that we will use to replicate past photographs will consist of a Canon camera with EF 24-105mm f 4 IS. We will try to establish the photopoint locations by cross-referencing the Alpenverein maps for the Huascaran and Huayhuash regions. New photopoint locations that could provide a better perspective of the described issues will be used as well. The insight of local people interviewed will aid this quest as well as provide details of the landscape and vegetation changes that occurred in the studied areas. Geomorphological and geological observations and academic literature, will aid the understanding of the geographic changes that occured in the Huascaran National Park and Cordillera Huayhuash.

Mountaineering objectives

“The Cordillera Huayhuash is home to some of the most spectacular mountain settings in all of South America, and contains some of the most spectacular and difficult Alpine climbing in all the Andes. One of the most appealing characteristics of the climbing is the outstanding alpine conditions. Excellent weather, mild temperatures, and an abundance of good ice make the Huayhuash a standout. The Huayhuash is a remote mountain range at 10° south latitude in central Perú. It is a smaller, more compact mountain range than its northerly neighbour, the Cordillera Blanca. Six Huayhuash peaks are over 6000m in height and ~30 more over 5200m. Beautiful ice and rock pyramids tower above lush, pastoral valleys inhabited by just a handful of rural farmers and herders. The dry season offers lengthy periods of stable weather and mild temperatures (-5°C in the Alpine) making the Huayhuash an ideal place in which to bring technical climbing to altitude. In comparison to the Blanca, The Huayhuash is quieter, more remote, and generally more spectacular. Since the mid-1990s, Perú has been relatively stable politically and a safe place for Westerners to travel” (Frimer, 2005 p.13).

Climb Huascaran Sur – 6768m, the highest peak in Peru without guides, via “The Shield Route” rated D+

Climb relevant sections of Huascaran Norte – 6655m in order to document (video/photo/text) the state of the mountain after the 1970 earthquake.

Climb Alpamayo – 5947m, one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, without guides, via the Frech Direct, rated D+

Climb Jirishanca – 6126m via the East Face, (East Pillar – Japanesse ED2)

Climb Yerupaja – 6617m peak without guides, as an alternative to Jirishanca in the case non climbing conditions, via the West Face – North West Spur TD-

The climbing strategy

Due to the high technical difficulty of Yerupaja and Jirishanca, the climbing equipment must be complete and of very good quality. An ascent on such mountains needs very organised logistics as well as very good mental and physical preparation. Bad atmospheric and ice conditions could put and end to our objective. Therefore, we chose to make this technical direct route on either Yerupaja or Jirishanca as, the conditions on the mountain differs dramatically from one to another. This is based on the fact that every high mountain creates its own microclimate, which affects the snow and ice characteristics. By using this strategy, we increase our changes of success.

Style: alpine – perform a fast climb, with no fixed camps, using very light equipment
Food: light freeze dried food, power bars, clifbars, power gels along with local Peruvian food.
Ropes: 2 half ropes, 60m in length
Ice Screws: 2 screws per anchor and 4-6 per pitch. Express-style screws are more suitable because of saving time implications.
Snow pitckets: 2 – 4, each being 60cm in length
Rock gear: 12 pins (blades, lost arrows, and angles), doubles in cams to 3 cm, single in cams from 3cm to 10cm, wires, and slings
Ice axes/Ice tools: 2 technical ice axes per person
Sleeping bag: warm winter down sleeping bag, light as possible
Weather Forecasts: available at www.editoraPeru.com (Spanish)
Bivouacs: bivouac sack needed, as well as finding a nice spot on the mountain face to sleep
Energy levels: Once well hydrated the next goal is to keep the blood sugar levels high. Power bars, clifbars, powergels are used.
Descents: steep and dangerous sections will be rappelled using V-threads

Jirishanca – 6126m

Figure 1: Threatening clouds build up around Jirishanca in the eastern Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru. Taken near Laguna Carhuacocha on July 1, 2006 by Howie Silleck during a 16 - day trekking circuit around the range.

Source: http://www.summitpost.org/clouds-on-jirishanca/213594/c-236605

With its distinctive pyramidal shape, Jirishanca is known to westerners as the "Matterhorn of the Andes". Its equally descriptive native name translates to "Hummingbird Beak of Ice". Jirishanca's beauty makes this peak stand out among its taller neighbours in Peru's little visited Cordillera Huayhuash. First climbed in July 1957 by Toni Egger and Siegfried Jungmeir, the mountain is notoriously difficult and has seen very few successful ascents (Summitpost, 2011).

Yerupaja – 6617m

Figure 2: Yerupaja seen from east.

Source: http://www.summitpost.org/yerupaja/151071

Yerupaja is Peru's second highest peak and the highest point in the massive Amazon River watershed. Yerupaja crowns the stunning Cordillera Huayhuash in the north central Peruvian Andes, a compact range that boasts several peaks over 6,000 meters. Yerupaja is sometimes overshadowed by its more flashy neighbors, which include the beautiful Jirishanca and the imposing Siula Grande (a peak made famous by Joe Simpson in his epic Touching the Void). However, Yerupaja is an imposing world - class mountain all by itself. Before, Jim Maxwell and Dave Harrah finally climbed it in 1950, Yerupaja was the highest unclimbed summit outside of Asia (Summitpost, 2011).

Huascaran Sur – 6768m

Figure 3: Huascaran from Pisco.

Source: http://www.summitpost.org/huascaran-sur/150254

Huascaran Sur is the highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca as well as in whole Peru and consequently it is quite popular. The south summit is 113 meters higher than its (much less frequented) northern twin. The first ascent to Huascaran Sur took place in 1932 by a German-Austrian expedition, whereas Huascaran Norte, is said to have been climbed as early as 1908 by Annie Peck, an American schoolmistress. The normal route to Huascaran South (via Garganta and the NW-face) is rated PD. The crux of the route is climbing the ever-changing Garganta icefall to the camp 2 at 5900 meters (Summitpost, 2011).

Figure 4: Early morning view from Yanapaccha showing lenticular clouds on Chopicalqui, Huascaran Sur, and Huascaran Norte. Source: http://www.summitpost.org/chopicalqui-huascaran-sur-and-huascaran-norte/222602.

Alpamayo – 5947m

Figure 5: Southwest face of Alpamayo.

Source: http://www.summitpost.org/alpamayo/150466

Alpamayo is one of the most beautiful ice faces in the Andes. It is located more remotely than most other peaks in Cordillera Blanca, as the hike to the base camp takes 2-3 days. In the first map of Cordillera Blanca from 1932, Alpamayo was not indicated at all! Eventually it was climbed for the first time in 1957 by a German expedition via the North ridge. Nowadays, Alpamayo is well known and was even elected the most beautiful mountain in the world. It is not the difficulty that inspires the climbers, but it's magnificent setting among the everlasting snowcapes of the Cordillera Blanca, 6000 meters above sea level (Summitpost, 2011).

Filming and Advertising objectives

Film and record the whole expedition with High definition cameras, in order to produce a high quality documentary about the expedition. The climbing section of the project will be video recorded in great detail using High definition (1080p) Go Pro Hero 2 cameras. Photographs will be taken as well by all expedition members.

Organise video and photographic presentations of the expedition, using all the material gathered as well as press conferences to inform the public about the action. The documentary will be the main focus of these presentations that will grasp all aspects of the expedition. These presentations will include photographs made by a professional photographer from Romania, Sorin Rechitan, winner of many photographic awards and prizes. The photographic equipment used is highly specialised and top of the range.

Promote the image of and the sponsors of the expedition.

Sponsor, advertising campaign and themes

Permanently promote the associated actions of the expedition:

Create a blog or website of the expedition in order to promote the sponsors as well as all the training process and expedition materials. This website will be updated accordingly and used as a communication tool between the expedition and the interested population.
Personalise the technical and high altitude equipment (tent, clothing etc.) with images, texts and logos relevant to the sponsor.

Organize press conferences before and after the expedition in order to make the action more popular.

Create a huge banner with pictures and text from the expedition as well as the main sponsors. This banner will be placed in any relevant city centres, before the expedition and the presentation of the documentary and photographic exhibitions.

Use the regional, national and maybe international television to promote the expedition and the sponsors. A short photo/video material will be created for this task.

Organizers

University of Edinburgh Expedition Society member – Sergiu George Jiduc

Explorer Association Arad, Romania (http://explorer.org.ro/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=5&Itemid=33).

Duration and period

A two - month expedition, commencing in early July 2012 and ending in early September 2012.

Brief description of the action

The access to Peru will be made by plane, probably from Budapest International Airport to Lima International Airport. The return journey will follow the same procedure and route. Approximate departure and return dates: 01.07.2012. and 01.07.2012 respectively.

The access in Peru will be made according to the local transport system, and will be as follows: Taxi drive (30 min) from Lima Airport to one of the hotels/hostels in Miraflores on Larco Avenue. The next day, Collectivo drive to on of the many bus stations in Lima. Collectivos are easily found in Oval at the beginning of Arequipa Avenue. From here, bus drive (8h) from Lima bus station to Huaraz (Chamonix of the Andes), on a good paved highway. Recommended bus companies for Lima-Huaraz are: Cial, Cruz de Sur and Movil Tours. All bus, hostels/hotels reservations will be made ahead of the expedition.

All the necessary permits and paperwork will be sorted out in Lima and Huaraz. Permits for Huascaran National Park are issued in a few valleys such as: Llanganuaco, Cashapampa and Musho. Passport is needed. Extra equipment (stove fuel) and food will be bought or rented from Huaraz. Maps and other last minute information will be gathered in these two urban areas. Hotels/hostels recommended in Huaraz are: Quitana, Albergue Churup, Grand Huaraz Hotel S.A. We will also inform the Mountain Rescue Association, Police and Gasa de Guias about our arrival and itinerary. Ask for information regarding the mountain conditions and hazard – related issues.

The acclimatization process will start with the bus drive from Lima (sea level) to Huaraz (3052m). We will spend at least two days in this town in order to accommodate. After this short accommodation, we will take another bus to Llupa in order to perform a hike to Churup Lake (4600m) to continue the acclimatization process, followed by rest.

After acclimatizing for 4600m, we will take busses to the climbing areas to destinations such as: Yungay, Caraz, Chiquian, Huallanca, La Union. Huarez, is the starting point and supply place for the Cordillera Blanca section, which includes Alpamayo and Huascaran peaks. Chiquian however, is the starting point for the Cordillera Huayhuash section, which includes Jirishanca and Yerupaja.

The transport of equipment from the above mentioned urban/rural areas to the base camps of the mountains will be made using donkeys or lamas and probably under the instructions of a donkey driver (arriero). Arrieros are easily found in Huarez, Llamac, cajatambo and Queropalca. We will negotiate a price and sign a contract with the donkey driver. Two copies of the contract will be made, one of which will be handed to the arriero, and the other to us.

Next we will head towards Cordillera Blanca, more exactly towards Alpamayo (5947m) and Huascaran Sur (6768m). We will allow ourselves 3 - 5 days to accommodate to 5000m and 7-10 days to acclimatize to 6000m. We will perform this process between the mountain camps. Hydration is the most important tool in aiding this process. When approaching Huascaran Sur we will focus our attention on Huascaran Norte as well in order to find the best photopoint locations for our research.

Climb Huascaran Sur (6768m) and take relevant photographs of the earthquake- affected, Huascaran Norte. Descent to Rio Santa valley, probably to Yungay city and rest.

Spend around 10 days to replicate older photographs around the valleys of Rio Santa, Rio Ranrahirca, Pisco and Honda focusing on geomorphic and geologic characteristics, Polylepsis, Eucalyptus and Pinus forets cover and mountain glaciers. Also, observe and record the landscape changes in the above-mentioned valleys and subsequent urban and rural settlements.

Leave the Cordillera Blanca range and head for the Cordillera Huayhuash via bus drive to Chiquian. Perform trekking expeditions around Yerupaja and Jirishanca to observe the glacier and mountain characteristics of the west, east, south and north faces of the mountains. Replicate older photographs of the main glaciers around these two mountains. Include aspects of the native and non-native vegetation in these photographs.

Finally, decide which mountain has the best climbing conditions and start the fast, light alpine climb. We estimate to spend around 5-6 days (+- 1 day) on the ascent and descent. We will descent on the South Ridge near Chaclan col (5615m) and then rappel eastwards to the glacier.

Return to civilization and either continue the geo – scientific research in the case material is still needed. This might include video interviews with local people or more photographs.

If time permits, we would like to explore the most important cultural aspects of the indigenous population, visit Machu Picchu and other relevant traditional/historical/architectural aspects of Peru. This is an additional objective of the expedition and therefore not primary.

Return home. Prepare the data and photographic/video material. Consult professors from the University of Edinburgh in order to disseminate the results and create a relevant article/expedition report. Public the article on the Internet and send it to academic and other interested organizations. Work on the video material in order to produce the documentary. Organize photographic and video presentations to inform the public. Attend press conferences and other events to further popularise the expedition and its results.

Risk assessment

Hazard (s)	Risk L / M / H	Control Measures	Risk after Control L / M / H
Physical Hazards (*High Altitude and low oxygen conditions, extreme weather conditions, rock/snow/ice avalanches, unconsolidated cliffs and ice blocks, failure of the climbing technical equipment such as rupture in half ropes, or even loss of equipment (ice screws, cams, ropes during a climb – quite rare, but still possible). Falls/ slips/ injuries and death could result from the above-mentioned processes. Also, accidents/injuries or even death could occur if forced to descent in the middle of the Face via an undesirable, difficult route. If equipment misses as a result of failure or loss than this descent is even more dangerous. Descents are the most dangerous sections of a climb. Disappointments, fatigue, lack of attention are primary factors that contribute to a disastrous descent.	H	The climate in the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash is determined by its proximity to the equator and also by the relationship between the humid air of the Amazon basin and a perpetual low-pressure zone over the Pacific coast, the latter caused by the cold Humboldt current, which draws moisture laden air westward over the mountains. The rainy season spans from October through March, and the dry season (also known as the “Andean summer”) spans from April through September. During the Andean summer the weather is stable with only one or two mediocre days in a week and sometimes with weeks of perfect weather. It is during these summer months that the majority of the trekking and climbing takes place (Huayhuash, 2012). Technical mountaineering equipment (cams, ice screws, nuts, ice axes etc) and adequate clothing (Insulated, waterproof, windproof), as well as shelter (tent and bivuac sac) will aid us to successfully interact as well as protect us from the environment. Protection such as helmet will be used during all climbs at all times, even for small ascents such as on a 10 m cliff for a good photopoint location. We will have extra equipment, such as an extra pair of half ropes; in the case the existent ones become obsolete. In the mountains there will always be a certain degree of uncertainty regarding snow and rock avalanches. This risk usually increases due to human intervention. We will asses the mountain conditions based on our previous climbing and weather interpretation experience along with information about past, present and future weather and snow conditions from reliable sources and act accordingly, probably avoiding the dangerous sections of the mountains. Information gathered from the Casa de Guias and Mountain Rescue Association is of great importance for our risk assessment. We will not venture in a climb if the weather forecast or snow and ice conditions are bad. During the technical climb on Jirishanca, Sorin Rechitan will be waiting for us in the base camp and inform us, via satellite phone, about weather conditions and other unexpected situations that could occur. All team members are aware of abseiling techniques on both rock and ice environments. Techniques such as Abalakov threads, different types of anchores, prusik, Klemheist knot, or Bachmann knot etc are “must be known” elements for the team. In the case of an extreme emergency such as a fall, the satellite phone will be used to call a rescue team or helicopter. The phone numbers for the High Altitude Rescue Service (Unidada the Salvamiento Alta Montana) are: 043-79-3327, 043-79-32-91, and 043-79-3333. All team members will carry a waterproof card containing the following phrase in Spanish: Los miembros del equipo rumano (Sergiu Jiduc, Sorin Rechitan, Aurel Salasan) ha sufrido un accidente en (Jirishanca, Huascarán, Alpamayo) en la "altura" x. Por favor enviar un equipo de rescate o helicóptero. El GPS cordonates de nuestra ubicación son: xx S, xx W.	L
Biological Hazards (poisonous plants, venomous / aggressive animals, soil or water micro organisms, bacteria, viruses and insects). Team members could get sick during a difficult climb, and forced to retreat, fast and via an undesirable route.	M	The highest potential hazard comes from microorganisms, and insects that can poison the members or the water and food that we use. Malaria and Yellow Fever are potential illnesses that could arise as a result of mosquito bites (Anopheles mosquito and Aedes mosquito respectively). Team members will visit a GP, practice nurse, pharmacist or travel clinic to discuss vaccination requirements (ideally this should be at least six to eight weeks before departure. Malaria is a serious febrile illness caused by infection of red blood cells with Plasmodium sp. parasites: P. falciparum, P. vivax, P. ovale and P. malariae. Malaria prevention advice for Peru follows the Health Protection Agency, Advisory Committee on Malaria Prevention (ACMP) guidelines. Epidemiology: There is a high risk of malaria in the Amazon basin of Peru along the border with Brazil, in the other rural areas below 1500m and in the city of Lima and the coastal region south of Lima. Risk Management: · Bite prevention - Travellers should take mosquito bite avoidance measures. Anopheles mosquitoes feed predominantly during the hours from dusk to dawn. · Chemoprophylaxis - No malaria prevention tablets are 100% effective. Taking malaria prevention tablets in combination with mosquito bite avoidance measures will give substantial protection against malaria. Chloroquine resistance is widespread in the Amazon basin of Peru. The recommended chemoprophylaxis for this area is mefloquine, doxycycline or atovaquone/proguanil (Malarone™). Chloroquine resistance is present in other rural areas of Peru below 1500m. The recommended chemoprophylaxis for these areas is chloroquine plus proguanil. Chemoprophylaxis is not recommended for travel only to Lima and to the coastal region south of Lima. · Diagnosis – If we develop a fever of 38°C [100°F] or higher more than one week after being in a malaria risk area, or develop any symptoms suggestive of malaria within a year of return, we’ll seek immediate medical care. Peru has numerous sanitation problems, therefore the washing up of hands as well as of fruits and vegetables will be of high priority. Water taken from lakes and rivers, dedicated for drinking will be treated before usage and heated at high temperature using portable stoves. Food that contains meat for example will be carefully cooked in order to kill any remaining germs. A first aid kit that I will receive from Prof Anthony Netwon containing all the necessary medicines and tools will be used in the expedition. All team members will have a first aid kit, and a special, lighter first aid kit will be used on Jirshanca and used accordingly. Some of the following medicines will be included in the first aid kit: Flagyl (Giardia antibiotic) Cipro/Ciprofloxacin for Salmonella, E.Coli, dissentry antibiotic Bactroban Cream (open skin infections) Nifedipine/Adelat (acclimatization) Diamix (acclimatization) Decadron/Dexamethascone (pulmonary edema, cerebral edema) Gravol (nausea) Ibuprophen (mild pain killer, anti-inflamatory) Demerol (extreme pain relief)	L
Chemical Hazards (pesticides, dusts, contaminated soils, chemicals on site methane/butane/ carbon monoxide intoxication from gas tanks and stove)	L	We will ask for information from the local authorities such as Huascaran National Park, Casa de Guias, Tourist Information Office, Mountain Police and Huaraz Mountain Rescue Association for details regarding chemical hazards in the areas we are visiting. In extreme situations we will avoid the contaminated areas. Extra care to the stoves and electric equipment will be showed. In the case of intoxication, we will seek medical care (satellite phone, hospital, doctors).	L
Man-made hazards (road accidents as a result of bus, cabs and collectivos drives, fires from cooking equipment such as stoves and gas tanks, improper use of technical climbing equipment such as sharp ice axes).	L	Most of this expedition will be carried out in the field, in remote places, some quite far from any human settlement and the main transportation method will be by foot. Therefore, man-made hazards tend to be rare. However, they are still possible and we are taking them into consideration. Bus drives form Lima to Huaraz and back as well as to other settlements will be booked with the following recognised and accredited bus companies: Cial, Cruz de Sur, Movil Tours and El Rapido collectivos. Extra care will be showed to the cooking, electric and climbing equipment. Medical care will be sought in the case of emergency (satellite phone, doctors, hospital).	L
Personal Safety (attack on person or property, first aid)	L	This hazard is quite hard to asses, however we are aware of it. We will inform the local authorities (police, mountain rescue organization, national park organization) about our visit, our aims and the areas that we want to explore. Non – violent and diplomacy are the first methods we will use in the case of a sudden attack. However in very extreme situations, we will make use of our technical climbing equipment for intimidation. We will make sure our travel and safety *insurance will cover as much as possible of our personal safety. We will hire recommended donkey drivers by the Casa de Guias or Mountain Rescue Association in order to reduce the risk of an attack on person or property. Police, park or other relevant authorities will be called in the case of an emergency.	L
Environmental impact (pollution, disturbance of eco-systems)	M	As mountain climbers and nature lovers, we are fully aware of our potential environmental impact. All waste will be evacuated from the national parks and natural areas and deposited in designated areas (garbage bins etc). All meal waste will be collected including organic material. Human waste will be disposed using small pits that we will dig away from paths and busy areas. Expedition members will not disturb the local flora and fauna.	L
Other hazards (Decision making)	L	Decision-making is extremely important in an expedition. Usually, it is the team leader that is assigned with this task. Decisions in our team will be made after a close and objective analysis of the potential strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats (SWOT analysis) a decision could have. The more mature and experienced members such as Sorin Rechitan will probably have a more powerful voice. However, all expedition members are assigned with a different role in the team: Aurel is responsible with the climbing section and safety, Sorin is responsible with the photographic section, safety and human resource management, and myself am responsible with logistics, finance and Geo science research. Each of us will use the SWOT analysis in their designated field to provide a conclusion. Finally, we will analyse these conclusions and vote for the safest, most efficient, and appropriate decision. This method proved to be very successful in past expeditions for our team. There is a high degree of respect between team members that should help us avoid tensed interactions.	L

High altitude and acclimatization

Adjusting our bodies to the effects of increasing altitude is the most important requirement for a safe ascent and descent on a high mountain. The affects of altitude on us are:

1. Less Oxygen
The higher we go, the thinner the air is due to less atmospheric pressure. At 3600m there are 40% fewer oxygen molecules per breath then at sea level. Our bodies must adjust to this before we can be happy at higher altitudes.

2. Less Atmospheric Pressure: In some cases it causes fluid to leak from the blood capillaries causing swelling.

Acclimatization
The human body has a remarkable ability to adapt to higher elevations through a process called “acclimatization” which:

Increases respirations

Produces more red blood cells to make the blood more efficient in distributing oxygen.

Increases pressure in the arteries of the lungs, forcing blood into parts of the lung that are not used at sea level (making them more efficient).

Things to do:

Ascend slowly. Go higher during the day and then return to a lower elevation for the night, increasing your sleeping elevation by 500m per night

Drink at least 3 litters of water a day and eat a high carbohydrate diet; this makes your body 70% more efficient in the acclimatization process

As everyone acclimatizes at a different pace regardless of physical fitness or how great of a climber they are, while at altitude we will monitor ourselves for signs of the following illness:

AMS:
Acute Mountain Sickness is the most common sign that your body has not adapted to a higher altitude.
Symptoms of AMS: (one or more)

1. Headache
2. Fatigue
3. Loss of appetite
4. Nausea or vomiting
5. Inability to sleep

Treatment for AMS:
Do not ascend. Consider descending. Monitor for onset of HACE and HAPE. Do not leave this person alone. Other things that help are Ibuprofen and warm fluids.

HACE:
High Altitude Cerebral Edema. This is an advanced form of AMS. The brain is swelling, causing confusion and weird behaviour. This is life threatening and must be treated with immediate action.

Symptoms of HACE:

1. All the same symptoms of AMS plus
2. Change in mental status – The patient acts “differently” or out of character
3. Ataxia –is a decrease in balance and coordination. Have the patient walk heel to toe along a straight line – anyone who has difficulty balancing at altitude should be suspected as having HACE.

Treatment for HACE:
Immediate descent to at least where patient slept without symptoms of any altitude illness. If the Ataxia gets too bad the patient can’t walk making the decent more time consuming.

HAPE:
High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. Your lungs are filling with fluid that has leaked out of your capillaries. AMS does not always precede HAPE.

Symptoms of HAPE:

1. Shortness of breath at rest
2. Extreme fatigue
3. Persistent productive cough
4. Gurgling sounds from the lungs (advanced cases)

We will start adjusting our bodies to altitude with the bus drive from Lima (1550m) to Huaraz (3052m), which will take 7-8 hours. At least one day will be spent in Huaraz, acclimatizing to the new altitude. Meanwhile we could buy supplies, ask for information and sort out the transportation of equipment to the base camps. 7-10 days will be spent in Cordillera Blanca acclimatizing, as usually this is the time needed for a climber to adjust to 6000m. The climbs and treks performed during the acclimatization process will lack technical challenges in order to avoid accidents and ease the whole process. Such climbs will include a daytrip to Churup Lake 4600m, followed by rest. We will continue acclimatizing on Alpamayo 5497m, followed by Huascaran Sur 6768m. After these ascents, our bodies will be adjusted to 6000m and we can perform the difficult climb on Jirishanca. Some acclimatization drugs could be used to ease the adjusting process such as: Diamox, Nifedipine and Decadron. Hydration is a key factor for an efficient acclimatization. We will drink 4-5l of water per day. Breathing techniques such as hyperventilation and finding the right pace in order to avoid hypoxia are also useful tools to avoid the above mentioned issues.

Travel Insurance

Travel insurance from Generali Group Romania will be issued for the full length of the expedition. The insurance is called Tourist Extreme Adventure and covers activities such as: rafting, mountaineering, scuba diving, wind surfing, motor biking, skateboarding etc. The insurance is valid both in Romania as well as abroad, in this case in Peru. Generali will support the costs of medical interventions, surgeries, medicines, and hospital accommodation in the case of an accident as well as the costs of transporting the body back to Romani, in the case of a fatal accident. The insurance will cover 60 days and a cost of up to 30 000 Eu. For more information please access the following link (Romanian): http://www.generali.ro/asigurari/persoane-fizice/vacante-si-calatorii/xtreme-adventure

Ethics

Every country and region has its own distinctive moral code and ethical standards. Expedition members will learn the moral code of the Peruvian people and will avoid causing harm to other people and respect their privacy. We will be flexible and open minded with the local attitude and aware that the Peruvian culture is different from the European cultures. The following things are taken into consideration before travelling to Peru:

Toilets: The reduced number of public toilets and bathrooms in urban areas.

Siesta: Outside of Lima, businesses do not operate under a fixed schedule, shops in Huaraz open at 9:30 and close at 13:00. Peruvians then go home for a big meal followed by a snooze (siesta). Shops re-open at 16:00 and then close between 18:00 and 21:00
Noise: In Peru there is no such violation such as “Disturbing the Peace” – a lot of noise is expected
Business Ethic: For most Peruvians, getting work done fast is not a high priority. The manana (tomorrow) attitude is part of the culture.
Solicitation & Begging: This is quite common because there is a huge surplus of labour in Peru
Sales Tax and Tipping: In Peru, all sales tax is built into the price. Tipping is only done in high-end establishments.
Bargaining: Most things can be bargained in Peru. Prices that are fixed include bus fare, restaurants, collectivos, park entrance fee, and departure tax.
Dogs: Lots of dogs roam the streets especially in Huaraz.

The fieldwork that we will carry has little or no direct effect on humans, animals or the environment. Because the main method used in the fieldwork is video and photographic of nature, the only issue may arise from the refusal of the local people to record certain areas or objects. This is may prove to be quite a big issue as some good photopoint locations could be part of a private property, and therefore unable for us to use without permission. In this case, the quality of our research may deteriorate, unless we find other photo point locations with similar perspective. However, for every research related action we wish to carry, we will ask for permission from the owner or guardian of the land. In the case of the Huascaran National Park, the park itself will grant the necessary permits (25$ per 30 days spent in park). The people we wish to interview will be first asked for permission and provided with information about our project. We will be flexible and open minded, respect any negative responses and find an alternative.

Transportation towards the photopoint locations and mountain objectives will use donkeys as means of carrying technical equipment and supplies. A donkey driver will be responsible with the safekeeping and the security of the material to be transported as well as the health and safety of the donkeys. There is a possibility to meet indigenous wild animals such as lamas, as we venture deeper into the mountains. We will respect the privacy of the animals and avoid causing excessive stress by means such as photographing. When buying food and supplies in Huaraz we will politely interact with the local population and respect every spontaneous action coming from them. There is also a possibility of living together with some local people for a limited time interval such as the donkey driver. This could be a great opportunity to find out more information about the visited areas, the people and the culture.

Maps

Cordillera Huayhuash - Source: Los Amigos de Huayhuash, 2012

Cordiller Blanca - Source: Andes, 2011

Breakdown of Budget Costs:

Pre-expedition	200 £ / expedition (training, paperwork)
International travel	3600 £ / expedition (plane tickets1200£ per person)
Subsistence (accommodation and food)	750 £ / expedition (High altitude and specialised food and other consumables such as: Honey, jam, syrup, bars and gels, energy tablets, boiled sweets, sugary lollies, liquid meal supplements, dried fruits, rice & pasta, malt loaf, mint cake, bagels).
Local travel	400 £ / expedition
Local counterparts/guides	300 £ / expedition (donkeys and donkey driver)
Equipment	2000 £ expedition (Half Ropes, pair of ice axes, set of cams, set of climbing nuts, ice screws, 45l rucksack, trekking boots)
Insurance	360 £ / expedition
Medical/health & safety	300 £ / expedition
Film/photography	600 £ / expedition 2 x GroPro HD Hero 2 video and photo camera, 1080p
Post-expedition	350 £ / expedition (sponsor advertising campaign, documentary)
Expedition report	50 £
Other (please itemise)	350 £ (Water purification system, tripod, solar shower, solar charger and batteries, memory cards)
Contingency (usually 10% of total)	1000 £/expedition

TOTAL:	10260 £ for the three members of the expedition

Expedition members:

Sergiu George Jiduc (Logistics)

Aurel Stefan Salasan (Climbing, Safety)

Sorin Rechitan (professional photographer)

Sergiu George Jiduc (20 years old)

Birth date and location: 03.02.1991, Arad, Romania

Current address: Barclay Terrace 4F1, EH10 4HP, Edinburgh, United Kingdom

Telephone: 0040730608051 (International)

+447510147014 (UK)

E-mail: jiduc_sergiu@hotmail.com

Website: http://www.sergiujiduc.com

Studies: University of Edinburgh – BSc Environmental Geoscience (2010 -2014), UK

“Moise Nicoara” National College, Profile: Natural Sciences (2002 – 2010) Arad, Romania

“Ioan Slavici” School (1998 – 2002), Arad, Romania

Mountain experience:

Mountaineering: regularly practicing this sport since 2004

Thien Shan Mountains, Kazahkstan (sponsored expedition, 2010):

Khan Tengri – 7010m (the most difficult Snow Leopard) via de North Side – I am the youngest climber in Romania (19 at that time) that climbed this mountain and above an altitude of 7000m.
Chapaev’s Shoulder – 6252m

Caucasus Mountains, Russia (sponsored expedition, 2009):

Elbrus – 5642m (the highest peak in Europe).

The North Face of Donguz Orun (4468m) – a rock and ice face of 1500m level difference. Romanian first.

Ceghet Tau – 3761m

Alps (2008 – 2011)

Matterhorn – 4478m, via the Italian Ridge (Lion Ridge), Italy, August 2008 at the age of 17.

Mont Blanc – 4807m, via de the Three Mountain Route: Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc, France, August 2008, at the age of 17.

Eiger – 3970m via Mittellegigrat, Switzerland, August 2011

Monch – 4106m, Switzerland, August 2011

Jungfrau – 4158m, Switzerland, August 2011

Rotstock – 2665m, via ferrata, Switzerland, August 2011

Grampian Mountains (2011):

Ben Nevis – 1344m, the highest mountain in UK, (Scotland, United Kingdom).

Carpathian Mountains, Romania: Climbing routes, alpine ridges and north faces of different difficulty, in all seasons, in the following mountain ranges:

Retezat (also known as Retezat National Park): many solo climbs in winter and summer in the north face of Bucura (400m level difference), Coltii Pelegii, The Judele Tower, more than 200 days spent in this mountain range.

Transilvanian Alps (Fagaras): The North Faces of Caltun and Negoiu, Arpasel – Vartopel alpine ridge, plus many more alpine ridges.

Metaliferi (Craciunesti): many sport-climbing routes (limestone).
Aninei, Almajului, Baile Herculane – many classical and sport climbing routes (at least 4 rope lengths).
Parang: alpine ridges and the North Face of Carja (350m).
Apuseni, Buces Vulcan: many sport climbing and classical climbing routes.

Ski: ski touring and freeride

Trekking and hiking: (started at the age of 7) – climbed some of the most important and remote mountain peaks and alpine ridges in the Carpathian mountains in ranges such as: Retezat, Fagaras, Bucegi, Parang, Zarand, Metaliferi, Almajului, Cernei, Calimani, Gutai with peaks such as: Peleaga – 2509m, Papusa – 2508m, Retezat - 2485m, Bucura - Moldoveanu – 2544m, Negoiu – 2535m, Parangul Mare - etc.

Mountain clubs memberships:

Explorer Association Arad, Romania: – member since 2009.
Mountain Tourist Association Arad, Romania: member since 2005.
The Queen’s Flower Mountain Club: member since 2003.
University of Edinburgh Mountaineering Society, member since 2011
University of Edinburgh Expedition Society, member since 2011

Other activities:

Swimming - (2003 – 2005).
Gymnastics - (1999 – 2004).
Basketball - (2004 – 2008).
Mountain biking
Passionate about: Nature, Geography, Geology, Quantum Physics, Nanotechnology, Sustainability, Astronomy, Spirituality, Consciousness and Energy, Universe and Evolution.

Aurel Stefan Salasan (26 years old)

Birth date and location: 17.03.1985, Coroiesti (Hateg), Romania

Telephone: 0040722724337

E-mail: auresal2004@yahoo.com

Studies: University of Aurel Vlaicu – Engineering of Biotechnical and Ecological Systems

Profession: Publicity and Advertising technician

Mountain Experience:

Mountaineering: regularly practicing this sport since 2004

Thien Shan Mountains, Kazahkstan (sponsored expedition, 2010):

Khan Tengri – 7010m (the most difficult Snow Leopard) via de North side.

Chapaev’s Shoulder – 6252m

Caucasus Mountains, Russia (sponsored expedition, 2009):

Elbrus – 5642m (the highest peak in Europe).

The North Face of Donguz Orun (4468m) – a rock and ice face of 1500m level difference. Romanian first.

Ceghet Tau – 3761m

Alps (2009):

Grossglockner – 3798m via the North Face with the following routes:

Mayerlrampe + Northgrad (a 450m ice couloirs, 70° -75° inclination)
Bergfuhrer (“the guides route”) - mixt route, M5 difficulty, 600m,

(Both routes are Romanian Firsts)

Johannisberg – 3453m, solo

Carpathian Mountains, Romania:

More than 80 classical mountaineering routes:

Extremely difficult (6A-6B) - Madona Neagra (6B) - Cheile Turzii, Memorialul Iencsi Baci (6A) - Cheile Turzii, Quo Vadis (6A) - Cheile Turzii, Arcului (6A) – Craciunesti.

Very difficult (5A-5B): Central (Craciunesti), Vanataria (Craciunest), Fisura Diavolului (Herculane), Fisura Bobot (Valea Cernei), Clepsidra (Craciunesti), Margaretelor (Buces-Vulcan), Cipches (cheile Turzii), Turnu Ascutit (cheile Turzii).

Winter mountaineering: Muchia Mare (coltii Pelegii) - 4B, Gemenele (coltii Pelegii) - 4A, 25 Octombrie (The North Face of Bucura II) - 3B, Hornul Mare (The North Face of Bucura II) - 3B Vulturii (The North Face of Bucura II) - 3A.

Trekking: since childhood, in all the most important mountain ranges in the Carpathians: Retezat (more than 200 days spent), Fagaras, Parang, Cindrel-Sureanu Ridge (100 km in 3 days), Bucegi, Piatra Craiului, Tarcu, Godeanu, Cernei, Apuseni, Ceahlau, Hasmas, Calimani, Rodnei, Gutai, Zarand, etc.

Mountain clubs memberships:

Explorer Association Arad, Romania: – member since 2009.
Mountain Tourists Association Arad, Romania: member since 2005.

Ski: ski touring

Other activities:

Mountain bike
Trail Running
Passionate about: Geography, Glaciology, Nature, Biodiversity, Anthropology, Astronomy, and Prehistory.

Sorin Rechitan

Birth date and location: 15.07.1976, Arad, Romania

Studies: University of Bucharest, Psychology and Sociology – 1999 graduate

E-mail: rechitansorin@yahoo.com

Website: www.rechitansorin.ro

Telephone: 0040722562013

Photographic activity:

Photographic domains: nature and photojournalism

Member of the Romanian Alpine Club

Member of the Photographic Association, Arad, Romania

Winner of numerous photographic exhibitions, contests, presentations at national and international level:

2^nd place at the National Geographic 2008 Contest

4^th place at the A.A.F.R. National Photographic Contest 2009, section: “Sport”.

Bronze Medal at the A.A.F.R. National Photographic Contest 2010, section: “Landscape”.

1^st place at the Touristic National Photographic Contest 2010, section: “Landscape”.

Collaborator “National Geographic” Romania.

Winner of many online photographic contests (i.e. www.alpinet.org)

Mountaineering activity:

Alps:

Mont Blanc (4810m), France, August 2007

Gran Paradiso (4061m), Italy, August 2008

Matterhorn (3535m), Italia, August 2008

Tofana di Rozes (3225m), Italy, October 2009

Grosslokcner, Austria, August 2010

Koenigsjodler Ridge, Austria, August 2010

Monch – 4106m, Switzerland, August 2011

Rotstock – 2665m, via ferrata, Switzerland, August 2011

Caucasus Mountains, Russian Federation

Elbrus – 5642m, the highest mountain and volcano in Europe

Carpathian Mountains, Romania:

Numerous sport climbing and classical mountaineering routes, alpine ridges in all seasons in the following mountain ranges: Retezat, Fagaras (Transylvanian Alps), Parang, Bucegi, Piatra Craiului, Apuseni, Leaota, Ceahlau, Calimani, Cernei, Zarand, Iezer etc

Other activities:

Mountain biking
Trail running
Swimming
Running

References:

Books:

Frimer, J. 2005. Climbs and Treks in the Cordillera Huayhuash, of Peru. Elaho Publishing Corporation, Squamish, British Columbia, Canada. (Recommended by Simon Yates at a presentation in Edinburgh,

Rachowiecki, R. and Jacobs, V. 2009. National Geographic Traveller Peru. 3rd Edition. National Geographic Society.

Academic Journals:

Byers, A.C. 2000. Contemporay Landscape change in the Huascaran National Park and Buffer Zone, Peru. International Mountain Society. 20:52-63.

Evans, S.G., Bishop N.F., Smoll, L.F., Murilo P.V., Delany K.B., and Smith, A.O. A re-exmanination of the mechanism and guman impact of catastrophic mass flows originating on Nevado Huascaran, Cordillera Blanca, Peru in 1962 and 1970. 2009. Engineering Geology.108: 96-118.

Klimes, J., Vilimek, V., and Omelka, M. 2009. Implications for recent geomorphological research and prehistoric avalanches and related hazards at Huascaran, Peru. Natural Hazards. 50:193-209.

Plafker, G., Ericksen, G.E., and Concha J.F.1971. Geological aspects of the May 31, 1970, Peru earthquake. Seismological Society of America. 61: 543-578.

Vilmek, V., Zapata, M.L., and Stemberk, J. 2000. Slope movements in Calljon de Huaylas, Peru. Acta Universitatis Carolinae.35:39-51.

Web Resources:

Huayhuash, 2012 (http://www.huayhuash.com/cordillera_huayhuash.html)

Skyline Adventures, 2012 (http://skyline-adventures.com/blog/?tag=acclimatization-huaraz)

Summitpost, 2011, (http://www.summitpost.org/)

USGS, 2012 (http://pubs.usgs.gov/pp/p1386i/peru/occident.html)

Also, The University of Edinburgh Expeditions Committee, Professional mountain climber Simon Yates from Touching the Void and Professors Andy J. Dugmore and Athony J. Newton from the University of Edinburgh provided advice for this expedition.

For sponsorships and donations please do not hesitate to contact me.